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Board index » Table Tennis Equipment - Specialised/Mainstream » Long Pimple rubbers

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 21 May 2007, 07:58 
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I think you've certainly done your bit for this week Mathias!!! Cheers mate!

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Shoebox9
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PostPosted: 21 May 2007, 12:52 
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speedplay wrote:
Lars Borgs judgement on the rubber sounded very promising. He said it was very easy to controll, he managed even better with this then he did with super block. Spin reversal was equal to Hallmark original and Super Block.


If Lars Borgs is correct, Hallmark may have played their hand too early.

With the minimum friction level still to be decided, Perhaps Hallmark should have kept the tricks used in this rubber's production till after a minimum friction level was set. If this rubber isn't frictionless but truely acts like it, I think the minimum friction level will be set higher.

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 27 May 2007, 07:35 
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Yippee! A great sacrifise for the greater good :wink: Good on you speedplay!

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 00:11 
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Well from that description I can't imagine you can get as much spin reversal as SB... might perform well in other ways though... Are the pips as stiff as the SB?

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 00:19 
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Review please!
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Bogeyhunter
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 01:28 
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You're in trouble. When he's addicted to golf....he'll be gone...

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 09:31 
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Wow, talk about a bad day!

Anyone who had the courage to admit to all those mistakes, has my respect! Speedplay the courageous!

Glad to hear you got it in in a well enough state to test it!

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Last edited by haggisv on 29 May 2007, 14:01, edited 1 time in total.

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 09:40 
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Hey Speedplay:

It sounds like some glue got through to the topsheet. A scalpel is useful for cutting.

Just leave the rubber just make sure that the glued sponge doesn't touch the pips at all (if it is curling badly). After a day it will straighten out and be ok. The topsheet might have stretched but all that happens there is that the rubber will be a little bit grippier than normal.

It should be ok.

For future Speedplay I think it would be wise to invest in buying a glue sheet. They don't cost much - although they are a bit tricky to remove at a later date (they stick to the blade).
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haggisv
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 14:02 
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I feel a 'how to glue pips' article coming up.... and the 'how not to' section is now virtually completed :lol: Honestly speedplay I think most of us stuffed up pur first few pip sheets...they're much trickier to glue than inverted... just like they are in playing :wink:

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Shoebox9
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Stiga Vicotry glue is wonderful. You put 3 layers (allow 3-5 minutes to dry between coats) on the blade, nothing on the rubber, and press/roll the rubber on. Put under books for 15-20 minutes, all is well.

Because the solvents in the glue have evaporated out before you place the rubber on the sticky residue left on the blade, even OX pip sheets stay in perfect condition.

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 14:42 
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Yes that's pretty much how I do it too... although the occasional OX sheet DOES need some glue... they have like a dry powdery finish, making it hard to stick... For sponged LP I usually put a very light coat of glue on, then give it plenty of time to get back in shape...

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rehill
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 19:31 
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To glue a rubber on the blade, just put a small amount of glue on the blade and then place the rubber on it and press it for one or two minutes with you palm. Use a sharp scissors to cut the rubber along the edge of the blade. Finally, place the bat under the weight of some books for some time. There is no need to put glue on the OX rubber or rubber with the sponge.
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haggisv
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PostPosted: 29 May 2007, 20:06 
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Well I guess you haven't tried some of the rubbers I've tried then...:wink:

If you put the OX ruber on the blade when it's still wet... you'll get a lot of bubbles... Also 'a little bit' of glue is rarely enough... if you don't put glue on the rubber you'll need more on the blade...

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 30 May 2007, 07:58 
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speedplay wrote:
I've tried glueing only the blade prevously but I found that the rubber curled up around the edges. Might be that I was to quick to apply the rubber instead of allowing the glue to dry properly.

About the glue sheets, do they work on sponged rubbers aswell? Is it still possible to remove AND re-use the rubber for another blade?


Yes if you put it on too early the sheet will curl up, so that's probably what happened.

Yes glue sheets DO work, and they are supposed to be removable, but it's not easy too remove them, and chances of damage to the sheet is much higher.

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Shoebox9
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PostPosted: 30 May 2007, 15:22 
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I've had an OX edge curl up like a cut snake too. It was because I'd put extra glue around the edges of the blade, and the glue on one edge hadn't finished evaporating out the solvents.

I once used 5 layers of Victory glue on a blade for a particually curlly Chinese OX sheet. The sticky residue on the blade was so strong I could lift up the bat with one finger touching the glued area.

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